nail art 60 image
Jeffrey
I am currently an art student and my teachers let me use 18X24 as the largest size for free. The bigger ones i have to pay for. And the big ones at the store cost about the same or even more.
So does anybody know the cheap way to make stretch canvas.
The medium i use on canvas is mainly acrylic.
If that has to do with anything when making a your own stretch canvas..
and i noticed im gonna need a staple gun...wonder how much those cost....
Answer
For the frame use 1"x2" pine - dressed, fingerjointed radiata (the cheapest kind). (My friend uses garden stakes, so any handy timber is good enough.) Cut the two pairs of sides together to make sure they are same length. Use a tenon saw and mitre block to cut them. The pieces for the long side are two thicknesses less than the lenght of the side they make, since they will butt against the peices for the short sides at the corners of the frame.
Apply glue where the the peices join at the corners fo the frame (long peices butted against short peices) and hammer long nails through the short peices into the ends of the long peices. Make sure the ends are even with one another onall sides and that the corners are square.
Make corner braces from masonite board - right-angled triangles (squares divided diagonally in half). They don't need to be very big. Glue and nail them to the back of the frame at each corner with small nail tacks.
If the canvas is very big (say, over a metre long on any side), put a cross-mmber (same timber used for frame) halfway along and between those sides. Put the cross member a few milimetres further to the back of the frame so that the canfvas will not touch it. RAsp the inside front edge ofthe frame to take the sharp edge off, since the canvas may chafe against this edge when you paint on it and possible braek or leave a crease mark.
For canvas use 12 ounce cotton duck. It is toughand has an even weave. It is about $15/metre or less if you buy from a wholesaler (who will sell you smaller lengths if you don't want a whole big roll). Cheaper canvas is okay if you want it. (The best thing to use is Irish linen.)
Cut the canvas to size, leaving enough over the dimensions of the frame to wrap around to the back of the frame and for you to be able to pull it when stapling it there. Use a staple gun which takes reasonably heavy staples to fix the canvas along the back side of the frame. (probale about $50 or $60 for a good one.) Start at he middle of one side, then the middle of the opposite side, then the middle of one of the other pair of sides and the opposite side to that, progressively working your way out to the ends of each side as you alternate between them all. In this way you are closing in on the corners from both sides. Pull the canvas with reasonable tension s you staple on opposite sides. Not extremely tight, because when you put the primer on it will wet the canvas and make it shrink, so that it will tighten even more. If you pull it too tight while stapling, the canvas will bow the edges of the frame in after you prime it and perhaps tear under the strain.
When you reach the corners, fold each neatly against one side of the corner and staple the fold down. Just pull the loose canvas away from the couners and fold it in a little triangle tab at the side of the frame.
You can prime using white acrylic house paint. Another idea is clear sealant paint (bondcrete), which will allow the natural colour of the bare canvas to show through, giving a nice "toned" canvas. to get a tomed canvas you can also mix some paint colour with the white acrylic according to what lighness or darkness and colour you want. light burnt sienna tone is good for portraits and figure paintings. This is an alternative to toning the canvas at the start of the painting.
Using a house painting brush, apply the paint evenly to the canvas in alternate strokes parallel to all sides, starting at the middle and working out to the edges. Don't put a lot of paint on the brush. Go over the same area with more than one stroke to make sure the paint covers and soaks into the surface of the canvas, sealing it properly. To check for "pinholes" in the paint, hold it up to the light and youwill clearly see them. Paint the sides of the canvas too. You will notice the canvas start to tighten like a drum soon after the primer goes on. Then leave it to dry.
This whould be fairly cheap, but it will be a nice looking, durable canvas. If you are doing studies or practising painting, canvas paper (primed canvas glued to thin cardboard) is good enough and can be glued to masonite if you wish to frame it. Making a canvas is overkill for these purposes and difficult to carry and store.
For the frame use 1"x2" pine - dressed, fingerjointed radiata (the cheapest kind). (My friend uses garden stakes, so any handy timber is good enough.) Cut the two pairs of sides together to make sure they are same length. Use a tenon saw and mitre block to cut them. The pieces for the long side are two thicknesses less than the lenght of the side they make, since they will butt against the peices for the short sides at the corners of the frame.
Apply glue where the the peices join at the corners fo the frame (long peices butted against short peices) and hammer long nails through the short peices into the ends of the long peices. Make sure the ends are even with one another onall sides and that the corners are square.
Make corner braces from masonite board - right-angled triangles (squares divided diagonally in half). They don't need to be very big. Glue and nail them to the back of the frame at each corner with small nail tacks.
If the canvas is very big (say, over a metre long on any side), put a cross-mmber (same timber used for frame) halfway along and between those sides. Put the cross member a few milimetres further to the back of the frame so that the canfvas will not touch it. RAsp the inside front edge ofthe frame to take the sharp edge off, since the canvas may chafe against this edge when you paint on it and possible braek or leave a crease mark.
For canvas use 12 ounce cotton duck. It is toughand has an even weave. It is about $15/metre or less if you buy from a wholesaler (who will sell you smaller lengths if you don't want a whole big roll). Cheaper canvas is okay if you want it. (The best thing to use is Irish linen.)
Cut the canvas to size, leaving enough over the dimensions of the frame to wrap around to the back of the frame and for you to be able to pull it when stapling it there. Use a staple gun which takes reasonably heavy staples to fix the canvas along the back side of the frame. (probale about $50 or $60 for a good one.) Start at he middle of one side, then the middle of the opposite side, then the middle of one of the other pair of sides and the opposite side to that, progressively working your way out to the ends of each side as you alternate between them all. In this way you are closing in on the corners from both sides. Pull the canvas with reasonable tension s you staple on opposite sides. Not extremely tight, because when you put the primer on it will wet the canvas and make it shrink, so that it will tighten even more. If you pull it too tight while stapling, the canvas will bow the edges of the frame in after you prime it and perhaps tear under the strain.
When you reach the corners, fold each neatly against one side of the corner and staple the fold down. Just pull the loose canvas away from the couners and fold it in a little triangle tab at the side of the frame.
You can prime using white acrylic house paint. Another idea is clear sealant paint (bondcrete), which will allow the natural colour of the bare canvas to show through, giving a nice "toned" canvas. to get a tomed canvas you can also mix some paint colour with the white acrylic according to what lighness or darkness and colour you want. light burnt sienna tone is good for portraits and figure paintings. This is an alternative to toning the canvas at the start of the painting.
Using a house painting brush, apply the paint evenly to the canvas in alternate strokes parallel to all sides, starting at the middle and working out to the edges. Don't put a lot of paint on the brush. Go over the same area with more than one stroke to make sure the paint covers and soaks into the surface of the canvas, sealing it properly. To check for "pinholes" in the paint, hold it up to the light and youwill clearly see them. Paint the sides of the canvas too. You will notice the canvas start to tighten like a drum soon after the primer goes on. Then leave it to dry.
This whould be fairly cheap, but it will be a nice looking, durable canvas. If you are doing studies or practising painting, canvas paper (primed canvas glued to thin cardboard) is good enough and can be glued to masonite if you wish to frame it. Making a canvas is overkill for these purposes and difficult to carry and store.
Wanting to withdraw from the Art institute of Pittsburg online?
Hehe
How can I go about this & what will happen ? Anyone experience this before ?
Answer
From a financial aid point of view, if you complete 60% of the term, you will earn 100% of the federal aid for that term. However, if you withdraw before completing 60%, the school must do a calculation to determine how much of your financial aid you earned for the time that you completed. They can keep that amount and apply it to your charges, but they must return the remainder to the federal government. Depending on the school's refund policy, you may be charged for any portion of the term that wasn't covered because funds had to be returned. Most for profit schools have a refund policy that nails you for the entire term if you attend beyond a short period of time (such as 1 week), so don't be surprised if the bill is large.
The school will have a process for formally withdrawing. Make sure you follow that and receive written confirmation from the school that you are formally withdrawn. If you do not, you may be considered still enrolled and the school may charge you.
From a financial aid point of view, if you complete 60% of the term, you will earn 100% of the federal aid for that term. However, if you withdraw before completing 60%, the school must do a calculation to determine how much of your financial aid you earned for the time that you completed. They can keep that amount and apply it to your charges, but they must return the remainder to the federal government. Depending on the school's refund policy, you may be charged for any portion of the term that wasn't covered because funds had to be returned. Most for profit schools have a refund policy that nails you for the entire term if you attend beyond a short period of time (such as 1 week), so don't be surprised if the bill is large.
The school will have a process for formally withdrawing. Make sure you follow that and receive written confirmation from the school that you are formally withdrawn. If you do not, you may be considered still enrolled and the school may charge you.
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